Potatoes Roasted in Salt

No proportions here, just a method. The potatoes come out of the salt all wrinkly and with an amazingly tender texture. Once the salt has cooled down, you can pack it into a jar and reuse it for roasting several times. Just add more salt when you need it. 

There is no more elegant way of serving these potatoes than slicing them in half and topping with a dollop of sour cream and as much caviar as you dare. If this isn't going to be a Beluga evening, go for salmon roe. Or try any of the dips and sauces [in this book]. You can even, should you care to, use any of the butters in the chapter of boiled potatoes. 

Coarse salt 
Small red-skinned or heirloom potatoes, scrubbed.

Heat the oven to 400° F. 

Spread a layer of salt in a deep baking dish or casserole large enough to hold the potatoes in a single layer. Put them in the dish and cover completely with more salt. 

Roast the potatoes for 50 to 60 minutes, or until tender. Poke them with a skewer or the tip of a small knife to check. Dump the potatoes out onto a tray and knock off the salt. 

Slice the potatoes in half and move them to a serving dish (placing them on a bed of salt is pretty). Top them in the kitchen if you want, or pass with a dipping sauce. 

Variation: Paula Wolfert's Potatoes Baked in Sea Salt 
An enameled cast-iron cocotte (Dutch oven) with a tight-fitting lid is essential for this dish. Paula's salt of choice is sea salt from the Ile de ré in France, but a combination of any coarse sea salt and kosher salt will be fine. 

Wash and dry 1 1/2 pounds small red-skinned potatoes. Spread 1 1/2 cups sea salt in the bottom of the cocotte and sit the potatoes on top in a single layer. Take off the cover and let the potatoes sit for 5 minutes. Brush off the salt and serve. This is enough for 6 to 8 for cocktails.