Farm Kitchen

With names like puffball, fairy ring and bird’s nest, it’s hard to take some fungi seriously. But, as mushroom experts know, even the most innocent-looking toadstool sprouting from your lawn can be a life or death matter.

This is an especially important reminder in the fall months, when mushroom hunters across the country are trolling damp grass and groves in search of savory, golden chanterelles, meaty maitake mushrooms and other edible fungi.

Many look just like the ones in grocery stores, but they may not be safe to eat.

In fact, Chlorophyllum, a mushroom commonly seen in yards and on golf courses, looks very similar to some edible mushrooms. Unlike the edible mushrooms, Chlorophyllum is highly toxic and causes severe upset stomach.

David Farr, who studies fungi and works at ARS’ Systematic Botany and Mycology Laboratory in Beltsville, Md., knows firsthand the dangers of munching on a mystery mushroom.

For 20 years, Farr has been a point person for several Washington, D.C.-area hospitals treating patients who’ve eaten a suspicious, potentially poisonous mushroom. Treatment depends, in part, on how deadly the ingested mushroom is - which is why a quick and accurate identification by a fungus expert is critical.

In some instances, Farr has been able to rule out that the mushroom in question is lethal, allowing a patient to avoid the uncomfortable procedure of having his or her stomach pumped.

Technological advances, like cell phones and digital cameras, are making Farr’s job easier. He used to rely on descriptions given over the phone, but hospital staff can now send him a digital picture of the fungal specimen in seconds.

Most of the cases Farr has encountered involve one of two groups: curious adults who can’t resist nibbling on pretty-looking mushrooms growing in their yards, or young children who don’t know better than to pluck a toadstool and take a bite.

Fungi

Mushrooms belong to the group of organisms known as fungi, which includes the molds and mildews found on foods and in homes. Pathogenic forms of fungi cause diseases in plants, animals and humans. Yeasts used for baking bread and producing alcohol are also fungi.

Domestic mushrooms sold in grocery stores and served in restaurant dishes were once wild mushrooms. Agaricus, the mushroom commonly found on pizzas, was being collected from the wild in France during the 1760s.. Shiitake mushrooms were first domesticated in China in 500 A.D.”

Call of the Wild

While some cultures in Europe and Southeast Asia collect and eat wild mushrooms, it is not something amateurs should emulate, says Charles Mims, a plant pathologist with the UGA College of Agricultural and Environmental Sciences. “Collecting mushrooms is a big part of these cultures, and it’s a skill that is taught from one generation to the next.”.

Get a Guide

To learn which mushrooms are edible, buy a good mushroom identification book or join a mushroom club. Some clubs organize mushroom walks and then meet to identify the samples they collect.

If you harvest wild mushrooms on your own, have a mushroom expert identify them for you. Then, only consume a very small portion the first time you eat a new edible find.

Many wild mushrooms are good to eat, but there are some that can kill you. The most poisonous mushrooms in the world belong to the genus amanita. Their poison can destroy your liver and there is no good treatment available.

Buy Direct

The safest way to get wild mushrooms is to go to a restaurant that serves them or buy direct from a commercial provider.

Sources:
USDA Agricultural Research Service
University of Georgia College of Agricultural and Environmental Sciences

In terms of sensory receptor genes, the human nose is relatively weak and our sense of smell has been degrading over time. But thanks to spicy cooking, this may be changing, according to “smell scientist” Avery Gilbert. In his intriguing book on the science of scent, What the Nose Knows, he writes:

“In the last 5,000 to 10,000 years, genes for smell receptors, along with genes related to diet and metabolism, have been evolving faster than those in any other physiological system.

“In the recent evolutionary past we have evolved entire subfamilies of odor receptors not shared by the chimpanzee - our closest living relative. An intriguing possibility is that these new receptors are tuned to new smells - ones that only recently became important to human survival. It’s speculation on my part, but I’d bet these receptors pick up the nuances of grilled meat - salmon filets and mastodon steaks - along with the volatiles of fermentation: not only milk products, but alcoholic drinks from beer to wine. On a daily basis we season food to please our palate, but over the long run our palate is evolving to match our menu.”

Barbecue Sauce
from Creole Flavors by Kevin Graham, Artisan 1996, $25

1/4 cup vegetable shortening or bacon grease
2 small yellow onions, peeled and minced
8 cloves garlic, peeled and minced
2 cups tomato puree
1/2 cup Steen’s pure cane syrup or blackstrap molasses
1/2 cup apple cider vinegar
1/4 cup Ground Mustard Seeds
2 bay leaves
2 tablespoons dark brown sugar
2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce
1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
1/2 teaspoon ground coriander
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper

Heat oil in a large, heavy saucepan over medium-high heat. Add the onions and
garlic to the pan and saute until tender, about 2 minutes. Add the tomato
puree and cook until the pureee begins to turn brown, about 5 minutes,
stirring constantly.

Add the remaining ingredients and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the
heat to a simmer and cook gently for 1 hour, stirring from time to time.

Meanwhile, sterilize three 1-pint jars and their lids and leave in the hot
water.

When ready, remove the sauce from the heat and allow to cool slightly before
using. Or bottle in the sterilized jars and adjust the caps. Refrigerate for
later use.

adapted from Cheese by Lou Seibert Pappas (Chronicle Books, 1996)

1 dried red chili pepper, crushed
6 oz. dried whole-wheat spaghetti
2 leeks (white part only), chopped
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 egg yolks
1/4 cup heavy (whipping) cream
2 oz. Brie, fresh milk white goat cheese, mascarpone, or shredded mozzarella cheese at room temperature
1/4 cup grated pecorino romano or Parmigiano Reggiano cheese, plus extra for the table
1/4 cup minced fresh flatleaf (Italian) parsley
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Add the crushed pepper to a large pot of salted boiling water.
Add the spaghetti and cook just until al dente, about 10 to 12 minutes.
Meanwhile, in a medium skillet, saute the leeks in oil over medium low heat until soft, about 8 minutes.
In a shallow serving bowl, beat the egg yolks and mix in the cream, two cheese, parsley, salt and pepper, and leeks.
Add about 1/3 cup of the pasta cooking water to the leek sauce.
Drain the spaghetti and toss with the sauce. Serve with extra grated cheese at the table.
Makes 2 to 3 entree servings.

If you don’t have:     ~~~    Use:

Allspice (1 teaspoon)  ~~~~ 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon plus 1/2 teaspoon ground cloves
Baking powder (1 teaspoon) ~~~~ 1/4 teaspoon baking soda plus 1/2 teaspoon cream of tartar
Bread crumbs, dry (1/4 cup)  ~~~~ 1/4 cup crushed cereal crumbs or crackers
Brown sugar (1 cup)  ~~~~ 1 cup white sugar plus 2 tablespoons molasses
Cornstarch (1 tablespoon)  ~~~~ 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
Sugar (1 cup)  ~~~~ 3/4 cup honey (reduce liquid in recipe by 1/4 cup)

Tomato juice (1 cup)  ~~~~ 1/2 cup tomato sauce plus 1/2 cup water
Tomato sauce (15-oz. can)  ~~~~ 6-oz. can tomato paste plus 1 cup water

Source: University of Minnesota Cooperative Extension

• More Cooking Substitutions

Ingredients:
2 medium sweet potatoes, peeled and cut into 1/2 inch cubes
1 apple, with its skin, sliced (Granny Smith apples taste good in this recipe; however, most any apple except Red Delicious will work in a baked dish)
1/4 cup orange juice
2 tablespoons packed brown sugar
1 tablespoon butter
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
1/3 cup dried cranberries or raisins

Instructions

1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Lightly grease or spray with nonstick cooking spray a 1-1/2 quart casserole dish.

2. In a small sauce pan over medium heat, mix together the orange juice, brown sugar, butter or margarine, cinnamon and dried cranberries or raisins. Heat and continue to stir until the sugar is dissolved and the margarine is melted.

3. In a large bowl, mix together the potatoes, apples and orange juice mixture.

4. Transfer to a casserole dish.

5. Bake, covered, for one hour or until the potatoes are fork tender.

6. Stir the mixture before serving to coat the sweet potatoes and apples with the juices accumulated at the bottom.

Ingredients

• 1 and 1/2 cups flour
• 1 cup sugar
• 2 teaspoons baking powder
• 1/4 teaspoon salt
• 1 egg
• 1/2 cup milk
• 3 tablespoons butter
• 1 cup blueberries

1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Allow butter to soften at room temperature.

2. When butter is soft, blend in sugar, egg and milk.

3. In a separate bowl, combine flour, baking powder, and salt.

4. Fold dry ingredients into butter mixture, stirring quickly until moistened.

5. Add blueberries.

6. Fill greased muffin pan or muffin cups 2/3 full.

7. Bake at 400 degrees for 25 minutes.

Makes 12 muffins.

(Excerpted from The Good Home Cookbook: More Than 1000 Classic American Recipes. See our review in The Book Stall)

Leftover chicken makes a delicious next-day dinner when combined with noodles and a cheese sauce.

1/2 pound egg noodles
1/2 cup (1 stick) butter
1 cup sliced mushrooms
3 scallions, finely chopped
1/3 cup all-purpose flour
2 cups chicken broth
1 cup milk
1 cup grated Parmesan cheese
Salt and pepper
2 cups diced cooked chicken

1. Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Grease a 2-quart baking dish.

2. Cook the noodles in a large pot of boiling salter water according to the package directions.

3. Melt the butter in large saucepan over medium heat. Add the mushrooms and scallions and saute until the mushrooms give up their juice, about 8 minutes. Stir in flour and make a paste. Gradually stir in the broth, milk, and 1/2 cup of Parmesan cheese, stirring constantly, until the sauce is thickened. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

4. Stir in the chicken and noodles and mix well.

5. Transfer the mixture to the baking dish and sprinkle the remaining Parmesan cheese over the top.

6. Bake for 20 to 25 minutes until heated through and golden. Serve hot.

Serves 4.

It is possible to quickly freeze raw tomatoes without blanching them first. They may be frozen without their skins or frozen whole with their skins. Frozen tomatoes are best used in cooked foods such as soups, sauces and stews as they become mushy when they’re thawed.

The University of California Division of Agriculture and Natural Resources offers the following advice on freezing tomatoes in its publication Tomatoes: Safe Methods to Store, Preserve, and Enjoy.

Washing Tomatoes

Tomatoes should be washed before cutting. To wash, wet each tomato with water, rub its surface, rinse it with running water, and dry it with a paper towel. After washing, cut away the stem scar and surrounding area and discard it before slicing or chopping the tomato.

Washing tomatoes in a sink filled with water is not recommended since contaminated water can be absorbed through the fruit’s stem scar. The use of soap or detergent is neither recommended nor approved for washing fruits and vegetables because they can absorb detergent residues.

Freezing Tomatoes

Tomatoes may be frozen whole, sliced, chopped, or puréed. Additionally, you can freeze them raw or cooked, as juice or sauce, or prepared in the recipe of your choice. Thawed raw tomatoes may be used in any cooked-tomato recipe. Do not try to substituted them for fresh tomatoes, however, since freezing causes their texture to become mushy. Tomatoes should be seasoned just before serving rather than before freezing; freezing may either strengthen or weaken seasonings such as garlic, onion, and herbs.

Preparation

Select firm, ripe tomatoes for freezing. Sort the tomatoes, discarding any that are spoiled. Wash them in clean water as recommended above. Dry them by blotting with a clean cloth or paper towels.

Freezing whole tomatoes with peels

Prepare tomatoes as described above. Cut away the stem scar. Place the tomatoes on cookie sheets and freeze. Tomatoes do not need to be blanched before freezing. Once frozen, transfer the tomatoes from the cookie sheets into freezer bags or other containers. Seal tightly. To use the frozen tomatoes, remove them from the freezer a few at a time or all at once. To peel, just run a frozen tomato under warm water in the kitchen sink. Its skin will slip off easily.

Freezing peeled tomatoes

If you prefer to freeze peeled tomatoes, you can wash the tomatoes and then dip them in boiling water for about 1 minute or until the skins split. Peel and then freeze as noted above.

Storage time

To extend the time frozen foods maintain good quality, package foods in material intended for freezing and keep the temperature of the freezer at 0 degrees F or below. It is generally recommended frozen vegetables be eaten within about 8 months for best quality.

Source: Alice Henneman, University of Nebraska-Extension

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